(By Hamed.K.Lateef, CEO Textile Testing International)

Does only relying on test reports insures compliance?

The answer is a big No!

Conformity is guaranteed only when the entire supply chain is compliant. It is only possible when a thorough management program is there which at least includes the steps such as understanding the requirements, raw material management, process control, supply chain/ accessories surveillance and of course Testing, without which a compliance program cannot be completed .

It is important to ensure that all the materials and chemicals placed in the production line are in compliance, knowing that conforming products cannot be made by raw materials that inherently do not meet the product safety requirements.

Compliance check can be performed by testing or requesting similar information from the supplier. If the information is not available from the raw materials supplier, it is advisable to carry out a test beforehand or when the materials reach the facility storage area. Make sure that the materials going to be tested should be taken from the same batch of material for production.

Information in the test report should be interpreted carefully as testing can be “fact finding” or “blind believing”. Always bear in mind that test report shows only the presence/concentration of the restricted substance requested by the sample submitter, therefore the plastic button with a ‘Pass’ test report for Lead does not mean it complies with other product safety requirements. It is detrimental to the business if the sourcing department does not review the report content but just rely on ‘Pass’ on the report front page.

If the manufacturer is confident that all materials used for production meet the product safety requirement, it is still advisable to test some of the finished products. Theoretically, the finished products should be in compliance since they are made with materials that meet the requirements, yet there may be unavoidable contamination or unforeseeable manufacturing process defects that affect the product. Random testing of the bulk products makes it possible to detect these problems. Testing is not the only way to manage product safety, yet a perfect compliance program should always contain a reliable and authentic testing. 

It is a means to validate both the program and the end product compliance. The percentage of the material/product tested can be adjusted according to the program needs – use testing as a tool to add value to your product safety management program.

Flamability of Clothing Textiles (Testalks May-June)

Flamability of Clothing Textiles

Flamability of Clothing Textiles

A Fabric’s ability to retain its original color is one of the most important properties of a textile product. The colorfastness or color retention is influenced by a number of variables that occur both pre-consumer and post-consumer. Fiber Quality, yarn formation, fabric construction, textile wet processing and consumer practices can all have an influence on the performance characteristics of a fabric. Of these variables, the choices made during textile we processing have the most significant effect on the colorfastness properties. Dye selection is also of the utmost importance. On the other hand consumer practices such as detergent selection and laundering techniques also play a major role in the color retention of a fabric.
The AATCC has over thirty test methods that evaluate colorfastness properties. These include , but are not limited to wash, light , crock, dry cleaning, perspiration, abrasion and heat. The type of product being manufactured determines which types of colorfastness are important and therefore which test methods are relevant. For example, upholstery fabrics must have excellent lightfstness and crock fastness properties, whereas washfastness is important for clothing fabrics.

Our experience at Textile Testing International suggests following as the textile manufacturing process affecting colorfastness;

 Preparation

Preparation is the first stage of textile wet processing. A thorough removal of impurities (waxes, sugers, metals, processing aids, grease, plastic and rubber) always help to achieve optimum dyeing and finishing conditions.

 Dye Selection

Dyeing is the crucial step in determining the colorfastness performance of a fabric. Every dye has a unique colorfastness property. The structure of the dye, the amount of dye, its method of bonding to the fabric and dyeing procedures all contribute to a dye’s performance characteristics. Dye combination in a specific formulation must also be evaluated for their effect on colorfastness.

Finishing

 Generally, resin treated fabrics demonstrate improved color retention to laundering. However, this increase in color retention comes at the expense of reduced physical properties of the fabric. Silicone Softeners incorporated into resin finish bath further improve retention for some fabrics. Also, enzyme treated fabrics show improved ability to maintain their original color and appearance after multiple home launderings.The degree of improvement from any of these finishing techniques is highly dependent on the individual dyes used in a particular formulation to achieve a given shade 

  End User Detergent Selection and Wash Procedures.

The evaluation of the colorfastness properties of a product should reflect the consumer laundry practices. Some fabrics may fade a little when home laundered with standard detergent, but fabrics laundered with detergents containing activated bleach can show significant losses in color strength as determined by the sensitivity of the dye to those detergents. Detergents containing enzymes generally reduce the color change associated with home laundering by decreasing the fuzziness of a fabric’s surface. Consumer practices such as washing cloths inverted, reducing the wash load size, adding softener to the final rinse and reducing the tumble dry time minimize the color loss.

With the International standards of Product Quality and Consumer Safety becoming more stringent day by day, Mr.Hamed K.Lateef expressed that Testing was an export requirement without whichPakistan’s products cannot comply. He added that testing was a tool to Add value to the exports of the country and to gain a competitive edge as well as a prominent market share in the Global market. He said “Textile Testing International’ was the first Pakistani Internationally accredited lab offering the most affordable rates and free of cost technical support to the industry.

He showed his determination on continuing to serve the largest industry of the country.Mr.Hamed K.Lateef is also a former Chairman of the Technical Committee for Halal Foods PSQCA.

AATCC News